Visit a thermal spa, explore some ancient ruins or watch the horse races with the locals in this western suburb of Naples.

The suburb of Agnano is mostly known for the extinct volcanic crater that has continuing thermal activity. The growth and subsequent draining of the crater lake has added a bizarre history to Agnano that is worth learning about.

Although Agnano is now developed as a residential area, the crater still draws tourists to the area. Walk through the lush natural oasis of the Riserva Naturale Cratere degli Astroni to the small lake at the center. Look down into the crater to see if you can spot some of the frogs and snakes that used to be prolific here.

In the Terme di Agnano, some of the thermal activity is still being put to good use. Ease any aching bones or muscles you may have with a warming, relaxing spa treatment at this “Wellness Park.” The site has some interesting ancient Roman ruins, which were once submerged when the lake expanded during the middle ages. It was drained in 1870 and the extensive range of drainage channels is still in use today.

Head to the unusual Grotta del Cane to see a bizarre tourist attraction from the past. Meaning “Cave of the Dog,” the Grotta del Cane has an odd natural phenomenon with a layer of carbon dioxide gas hanging low to the ground. People can enter without problems, but dogs quickly succumb to the lower hanging gas and pass out. An old tourist attraction was to demonstrate this with a dog before reviving it in the nearby lake. Fortunately for the dogs of Agnano, this ritual was phased out with the draining of the lake in 1870.

Cheer along with the crowds at the races held at the Ippodromo di Agnano. As one of the oldest and most famous race courses in Italy, it has many events throughout the year. As well as hosting the internationally important Gran Premio Lotteria di Agnanohorse race, it is also a venue for concerts, markets and more.

From lush craters and ancient Roman spas, to gassy caves and galloping horses, Agnano offers an interesting and unusual slice of urban life in Naples.